video: episode 24, location photography gear
I’m gearing up for next week, when we’ll be shooting some new location portraiture videos for prophotolife (so stay tuned). In advance I wanted to cover some of the equipment we’ll be using, hence this video showing our DIY location computer stand, large diffusion / reflector frames and a very cool new toy, a portable, battery operated studio light. And here’s a correction: in the video I say the battery pack gives over 200 flashes when fully charged, they actually claim over 500 full power flashes with this strobe when fully charged. That’s a lot of juice. Equipment links below the video.
Subscribers view video here:
Here are the equipment links for specs / features and a reminder that Daylight Photo is still my day job, but every little purchase helps support prophotolife when you Shop Calumet Photographic - It’s Where the Pros Go:
42×78 Aluminum Frame and Three-Fabric Panel Kit includes the frame, a set of legs and three different fabric panels.
Travelite 125 Travel Pak Kit is packaged as a kit with strobe, reflector, battery, charger, light stand, carrying case and cords, a big savings over purchasing the items separately.
I’m initially very impressed with this strobe and battery pack solution. There are more expensive options that are, to be honest, out of the price range of what I wanted to pay. I own a different brand studio strobe and their battery setup and was never fully pleased with the performance. We’ll be putting it to the test next week!
Jim, the links for the frame and lighting kit didn’t work for me. I tried them with IE and Firefox.
Thanks for the heads up, Craig, I checked it out and it seems to be working for me. Hmmm, hopefully it was just temporary?
As always, Jim… thanks for the good information. I’m looking forward to your on location videos. They should prove to be rather helpful.
How does the frame and diffuser panel work with flash units? I’m leaning toward getting a flash for my camera before I invest in any studio lighting. Have you noticed any difference in performance with diffusers and reflectors between studio strobes and flashes?
Hey Jim, video doesn’t seems to work here either.
Jim, another good video and I look forward to seeing you work on location. I’ll also be watching closely to how you use the light panel.
I’ve been curious about them since watching a few Dean Collins videos. Sadly, I haven’t made the effort to build a DIY version because I can’t seem to put my hands on good diffusion material locally.
Also, thanks for the link to the Calumet aluminum version as I may just spend the money instead for what appears to be a good quality at a reasonable price…
FYI… Links and video worked fine for me on Windows/Firefox.. Thanks again,
Tried them again and they still aren’t working. The Calumet link has been working the entire time though.
Everything works for me! Mac OS 10.4.11/ Safari.
The links are working now. Thanks.
I’ll have to give that laptop stand a try. How sturdy is it? I don’t shoot tethered but always have a laptop on location, and never have a good place to put it. I use multiple cards so while one is downloading, I keep shooting to the other card.
John, as much as I love studio strobes, definitely get the shoe mount flash first because it can go with you everywhere. If you fill up the diffusion panel with light it doesn’t really matter if your strobe is large or small, you’ll get very similar results. Generally speaking, the studio strobe offers more power, a model lamp and easier fitting of accessories. Plus my aging eyes can see the controls better.
Dean Collins videos, that brings back memories! I love DIY projects but the aluminum frames are reeeeally nice. They’re as light as PVC but so much sturdier. If it’s something you’re going to use a lot I think the aluminum is well worth it. If it’s just an occasional use then PVC might be fine.
The laptop stand is really sturdy, no problems in five years of use. There’s a tiny bit of wiggle in the mount but sometimes that’s not a bad thing. The real trick, I think, is to use a fairly large quick release mount like the six-sided Bogen (Manfrotto). I don’t think I’d want to do it if the shoe / quick release was really small.
The entire video is - as usual for prophotolife.com - awesome and informative, but I was particularly drawn to the laptop stand. I’m a sucker for awesome DIY projects with a high usefulness factor.
One possible improvement that occurred to me: drill holes in the lower corners. Get a pair of long dowels to fit snugly in the new holes. Put a couple of grommets on the black shadow cloth so that the dowels become arms that hold the cloth over the screen for you.
If you’re considering building one of these - I know I am! - also consider the Gyrations wireless mouse. This mouse works on conventional surfaces as provided by Jim’s shelf, but can also be used in the air like a Nintendo Wii controller.
Hi,
I love the videos here. I’ve learned a lot from them and I hope you’ll keep making them.
I am about to buy a Travelite kit so I am curious to see how you like yours.
A quick question -
what is the black cloth clamped to the laptop stand for?
Thanks again!
Jon
NormMonkey, you’re well on the way to laptop stand v2.0! Here’s a request: though it’s never been a problem, an effective ventilation or cooling system underneath would be nice. Maybe it’s just drilled holes? It gets mighty hot under that black cloth out in the sun…
Thanks, Jon, I’m glad you like the videos. I used the Travelites years ago and have only started using them again recently. What can I say? Really well built units, super bright 250 watt model lamps and Calumet has some great deals right now. They’re a good investment, I feel.
And the black cloth is to shade the screen so it’s visible when shooting outside. No more screen glare / reflections!
Hey Jim,
It took me a couple of days, but I got through all 24 episodes, and i gotta say they are all extremely informative and well produced. Great tips and technicques, and what I really like is all the DIY tricks you show. Love it!!!
Another great thing is to see how the quality of the videos has improved over the last 24 episodes. You gotta find time to make a DVD one day.
Jim,thanks for taking your time to do this. I cant wait for more episodes.
Jan
Oh… i forgot, your video archive does not show episode 23 and 24.
Jan
Thanks, Jan, 23 and 24 will be linked tonight!
Jim, as always, great video!! I specially liked the the computer stand. I did found a pimp your laptop case video in another’s photog website that may be of interest. The photog’s name is Chase Jarvis and he is amazing as well. His blog, as well as yours, are part of the daily blogs I read and comment on. Good stuff.
Anyway, here is a link to the pimp your laptop case video that may be of interest: http://blog.chasejarvis.com/blog/2007/03/photography-laptop-case-aka-pimp-your.html
I’ve thoroughly enjoyed ALL of your videos, for my training purposes. Question on the video above, LOCATION PHOTOGRAPHY GEAR. I noticed that you always CAPTURE your digital photo image immediately on you Mac notebook. What software / link do you use to get the image immediately up & on the screen?
Sincerely, Edward
I use Phase One’s Capture One software to shoot tethered with our Canon cameras. Nikon NX, Canon Capture Utility, Bibble Labs and Aperture might also work for you, depending on your camera model.
Hay Jim great videos thanks.
Question, can you please give me a quick description how you
shoot a shot and immediately have it up on your Mac laptop. I saw you looking to it off camera in one of your videos. Does it in fact come up immediately on your laptop? I saw you also mentioned Phase One’s Capture One software. I have a Nikon D80. Ok one more ..Do you shoot “raw” or straight “Jpeg” images?
Thanks
Pat Burns
LA CA USA
Hi,
Would like to setup home studio lighting using floroscent light(spiral)…please advice what amout of watt needed and where will i find them. Thank you.
I “discovered” your videos on youtube on friday night and have spent my entire weekend watching each and every one them. Thank you for the well made and insightful information and advice.
The question thatI have came with video number 24. In the video you said that you shoot directly to the computer. How do you do that? I have a Minolta 7D and everytime I connect the USB to my computer it just reads the camera as a USB port and I loose all camera function.
Can you shed some light on what you do with your camera and computer?
Thanks for the awesome videos!
Would love to see helpers that would help with lighting when doing architectural photos. I have been asked to do interior home and office shots. Most will be at night, the other thing I am worried about is the balancing of light with windows during the day.
Any and all suggestions and tips would be deeply appreciated!
I have stuck gold you have just saved me tons of money, time and have given me direction towards my goal as being a well sought after photographer, Thank you for the great videos it has brought alot of insight to basics with lighting and techniques that all photogs should know. I am self taught.
TWIST (THE WAY I SEE THINGS) I SEE THEM CLEARLY NOW!!
Some quick answers:
Here’s a video with more info on shooting tethered to the computer. Check your Minolta owners manual to see how your camera connection should be set in the menu. Maybe it’s on the wrong setting? Unfortunately, I don’t have any personal experience with the 7D…maybe the dpreview.com forum for Minolta users…?
Diane, that’s a big topic and definitely worthy of it’s own video. I have a couple of quick tips, I hope they aren’t too basic for you.
1. always shoot RAW so color balance can be easily corrected later
2. always shoot on a tripod
3. always bracket exposures, making sure to get at least one great exposure for the inside of the home / office and an exposure for the scene outside the window. These exposures can later be merged in Photoshop. (Now aren’t you glad you used the tripod so they’re in perfect registration?).
Sudhakar, I don’t have much experience with the more powerful spiral fluorescents. here’s a link to a DIYPhotography.net home project using spiral flourescents, maybe the links from there will help out.
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