video: episode 13 , beautiful portraits with just one light
In this video we’ll look at three fundamental styles of portrait lighting. Whether you’re using a studio strobe or a Strobist setup, this is a great intro to portrait lighting with just one light. Just as in last week’s quality of light video, we’ll be using the inexpensive Genesis 200 1-Light Kit from Calumet.
Subscribers view video here
View the still images from the shoot (along with EXIF data in this photo gallery:
Many thanks to our friends at Heyman Talent for providing the wonderful talent!
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Thank you very much for this video!
This really helped me on some decisions and how to setup my images.
I really like your series. This teaches me much about light and more. Thank you.
Love to see more
Greets,
Martin
A great video !!! Tx you very much !
Hope you gonna do some more on that particular subject !
Regards,
F
Thanks, guys! Yes, next week will be another portrait video, showing the classic three light portrait and how the lighting is “built” around the subject.
This is great. Even though this weeks information is very basic it never hurts to review. The site is getting better and better. Can’t wait till next week.
Thanks for another good video. I had been wondering what Rembrandt lighting was and now I know.
Thanks for another great video! I appreciate the time and effort you put into these videos because, for me, it’s easier to see something in action (video) rather than see the set up or read about the process.
@Mel, same here… They also help to build up confidence in studio photography.
Jim, Was the lighting kit you used the Genesis 200 kit from your video last week? Also, what did you use to sync your camera to the strobe?
Thanks for the great video!
Thanks for another useful lesson.
I have a feed for your site which I check most days.
Great work.
BK
I chanced upon your site only last night and was amased at the amount of brilliant information you have made availiabe. Although a complete novice I have found the content and presentation very informative on each of your video’s, your latest on portrait lighting has simplified and explained a concept that I have found difficult to understand from a couple of well recommended books. Have you written any photographic books yourself ?
Wow, just found your site via Google Reader and it’s right on the spot. This video is pure gold. Have heard all these terms (butterfly lightning, rembrandt lighnint etc.) before, but never seen them explained so good! -one improvement could be if you would point out the different lights on the model’s face (or paint a little red triangle on the photo for clarification).
Will check out your blog now.
Greetings from Spain
Dennis
Hi John, yes the lighting was all provided by the Genesis 200 kit again this week. I’ve become pretty attached to it over the last couple weeks. And, at $170 complete, it will also be a great kit for me to loan out to photo assistants when they ask. Our studio uses the Quantum Radio Slave 4I Set (Frequency A)
for triggering, we’re pretty heavily invested in the system. I do have a $99 (complete) Calumet Four-channel Radio Flash Trigger Kit
on the way. I set up a strobe outfit for a client with one of these and it seems to be an absolute bargain.
Andy, I haven’t written any complete books but maybe the content in this website will end up in book form someday. You never know! Hmmm, you’ve given me another project I need to look into…
I agree about highlighting the photos in red, Dennis, that will most likely be done in the future. Thanks always for suggestions, it helps me to know what things look like on “the other side of the internet connection”.
I really appreciate hearing your comments and am glad to see people are finding the site in all different ways. It’s a great compliment any time the site is mentioned in a forum or shared with friends because it’s helped them out. Thanks for spreading the word!
Thanks Jim. I am seriously considering ordering the Genesis 200 Kit and the Calumet Radio Flash Trigger Kit you mentioned. I think I just might do that.
John, good luck with your decision. I try to stay pretty neutral when it comes to “what camera to buy”. And strobes, too, because there are some really good brands out there. But at the current price it’s a really low risk, low cost entry. If you get hooked on studio lighting then something like the Genesis 400 2 light kit could be added later, creating a low cost but nice quality 3 light system. Calumet is also a proven company with good support and 29 locations worldwide, so they’re doing something right. Hey, let me know if you make a purchase!
Thanks Jim. I’ll certainly let you know what I decide.
I enjoy your blog and am looking forward to reading your next post on digital workflow.
Jim, question on the Calumet 4 channel kit. Is it possible to buy additional receivers and what is the maximum number of receivers that you can sync?
Thanks,
Mike
Mike, I didn’t know the answer to that one so I called Calumet’s 1-800 number and Bill quickly gave me the scoop: additional receivers are $59.99 and are Calumet item #CF0046. The item is not yet on the website but is in stock, I’ve been told.
Since they are wireless there should be no limit to the number of receivers set up, if I understand your question correctly, they’re just responding to a signal. Technology keeps coming down in price…
That’s great news. Thank you for your effort Jim. I’ll be ordering a couple of these this week.
Hello Jim. Thank you once again for sharing your knowledge.
How do you compare the Calumet 4-channel Radio Flash Trigger Kit with the Pocket Wizard (besides price)? Or are they not the same thing?
Some great tips here. Sometimes it’s nice to go back to the basics.
Looking forward to the three light setup!
nice, thank you so much for the video guide
it really helps!
I would like to thank you for all the help you provide with these video’s. I look forward each week to the next one. and the way you put across the subject is just right for me well done keep up the good work.
Hi Jim,
Great videos on your site. I have the 2-light Genesis set and am enjoying it quite a bit. A couple of questions for you - you mention on this 3-light video using a light with grid spot on the reflector. Do you use a different reflector than the standard Genesis one or do you remove the modeling light which gets in the way?
The second question is could you do a future video on metering exposure for portraits? You speak in this video about repeatability and understanding metering would help, I think.
You are doing great work.
Hi George, thanks for the ideas. Metering is always a good subject, I’ll try to work it into future videos.
I use the standard Genesis reflector with a grid attachment that Calumet sells. If you go to their site just do a search on “Calumet 3/8″ (9.5mm) Grid for 8″ (20cm) Wide Reflector” and you’ll find the one I use.
From looking at the gallery and the EXIF data, you were shooting these at ISO200. Is there a reason for this? instead of shooting @ ISO100? Also does it effect the final image that much?
Great videos really helping me learning with the small powered strobes
Thanks for the outstanding video! I will meake treasure of your advices..;)
Hi Andy, the images were shot at ISO 200 because I was shooting with new strobes and wanted to have more flexibility with aperture choice. It turns out there was plenty of power and ISO 100 could easily have been used. 100 would have given slightly better quality but I don’t mind using 200 when / if necessary. Higher than that with the 20D, though, is probably not ideal for studio portraits.
Hello.
Unfortunately, the video is no longer available. I’d love to watch it, so could You upload it once more? I’ll be very thankful
Regards
paul
Hi Paul,
Sorry you’re having problems with the YouTube videos, nothing has been pulled down. It seems like YouTube is having these kinds of problems all over the ‘net. I created a post with links to some suggestions, hopefully they’ll get you back up and running!
Let me know how it works out,
Jim T.
Your video instruction reminds me of the old sayin: “Brevity is the soul of wit.”
Your presentation, style and immediate feedback/showing of the images are easy to follow and clear.
The real bonus for the viewer is the “how-to”, but the obvious benefit to you is “how much” you enjoy doing it. We learn from both.
Many thanks and continued success,
Richard
Awesome site! Sorry to ask a dumb question - I am new to the concept of studio lighting…Do the studio lights “flash” when the triggered by the camera? Or do they remain at the same level and the flash in the video is from a camera mounted flash?
Cheers,
Bruce
Don’t be afraid to ask, Bruce. All of the light is coming from the studio (strobe / flash) lights, there is no camera mounted flash. The little box atop the camera merely triggers the studio lights into flashing. The power / flash output of each of the studio lights is controlled independently with by power buttons on the back of each of them. Make sense?
Thanks for the speedy reply Jim.
So you set the power on the studio lights, and they flash at that level at the time the photo is taken?
Thanks so much for your help, as noted by another poster, after watching a couple of your videos, I can see the passion you have for what you do. Great to see other people with this passion. Your videos are also easy to watch and follow, and very helpful how you show the image immediately after you take the shot to clearly show what you are are demonstrating.
Great, great site…
I can’t thank you enough for the simple explanation in your videos. I’ve been trying to teach myself lighting and it gets a little difficult trying to learn from simple illustrations in books. Having someone explain it is so much more worthwhile to me.
I’m a little confused thought. I tried to ‘practice’ with the 3 different 1-light techniques and I didn’t have the success you had… Can you tell me, how far from the subject should I put my studio light? And does it matter what power I have my light set on, for example if I’ve metered for f5.6 or f8??
Thank you again for the videos! They’re Great!!!
April
April, do you have any sample photos to look at? It helps to see what you’re doing, then we can figure out where to go next. And thanks for viewing!
Jim,
I’ll try to see if I have one and I’ll get back to you.
Thank you so much!
April
Jim,
I have one image. How do I upload it to you? Sorry, I’m not computer savoy AT ALL!!!
April, can you just attach it to an email? jim@prophotolife.com
Sir Jim, my name is Nick Meireles and I am a make up artist and photographer from Brazil, I am so impressed by the way you caught my attention! I am learning so MUCH! I am on the virge of opening a bussiness, I am opening a photo studio. Thank you for all the learning! You are really great! I hope you can come and shoot in Brazil someday!
Hello Jim - Love the videos - excellent. You make it look so easy.
I hadn’t attempted any portraits yet with one light but my question involved distances. How high in the butterfly example and about how far from the subject. Was this just an eyeball estimate? Regards George
George, for the butterfly light I raise it above my head and then lower it until there’s a nice catch light in the eye. If the light’s too high the eye will be in shadow and the catch light won’t show. As for distance, that was a guesstimate, just a comfortable working distance. Moving the light in softens it a bit, further away makes it harder. Hope this helps…
Hi Jim,
What a fantastic site! I’ve been stumbling around and have been overwhelmed by so much technical info and jargon, this site was a real find. Now that I understand the math behind basic lighting through my exhaustive reading, it’s really great to see practical application. And I really like the fact that you don’t seem to be talking down to folks who are not on your level. Your site will take my photography to another plane, and I promise to pass on your site to any who shoots photos. I also promise to be as giving with the info to others as you are to us. Thanks!
As for the bounce that you are using in your butterfly example. Can you tell me what it is made of and what you are using as a stand, please? What are the dimensions of the bounce, as well? It looks like you have some duct tape on the edges of some kind of styrofoam or something. You might have some kind of plastic sheeting over it? You may have shown how to do this on another video but I missed it, and since I discovered you I’ve been combing through the list.
Thanks for your reply,
Jerry
Los Angeles
Hey Jerry, thanks for the kind words. The reflector you’re referring to is the 42″ (107cm) Translucent White ZipDisc with Cover
. The stand is what we call a “stick in a can”. You’ll find a closer look at it in video episode #1, I think, but some tips on building them are in this post.
I hope this helps and thanks for reading.
Hi Jim,
Thanks for the speedy reply. However, what I was really wondering about was the bounce underneath the face, or rather below the umbrella. You know, the one parallel with the floor as opposed to the disc in a can. It looks like maybe a foam core with duct tape on the outside. I can’t tell if there is some kind of plastic sheeting to change the sheen, or something like that? It looks like the stand might be a converted old tripod stand.
Thanks again for the first speedy reply. I hope to hear back on this soon,
Thanks
Jerry
Ahhhh, yes, yes, yes…sorry about that, Jerry, I was on autopilot!
You’re right, it is just a piece of plain old 4′ x 4′ white foam core (nothing else on the surface). I don’t believe there’s any gaffer tape on the outside but sometimes we’ll use white gaffer tape around key foam core pieces to keep them from getting “dinged up”.
The stand is a regular old small light stand with a grip arm from a C-stand on it. Here’s what we’re talking about: 20″ Hollywood Head and Arm Complete
.
I hope this helps, don’t hesitate to ask if you have any other questions.
Hi Jim,
Thanks yet again. I can’t wait to get some foam core and a willing subject and play!
Lastly on this, what aperture setting did you use on the photos on this video? And what do you perfer in general for indoor portraits? I’m asking lots of suestions, huh?
Thanks for you replies,
Jerry
No problem, Jerry. For most of our indoor portrait setups we’re shooting around f8 - 11. It’s enough depth of field in case focus on the face strays a tiny bit but it also doesn’t pull the background into sharp focus.
Hi Jim,
Thanks again. You must have unimaginable time and energy. You put together all of these great vids, tons of preparation per each, write articles for us, keep the whole site great and informative, run a thriving business per your vid showing how your studio works, and still answer our inane questions almost as soon as they’re posted. This site should be on every photog hopeful’s “must see” list, and their “must study” list. I hope that you’re making a ton off of the ads on the site, because the site is sure worth it.
Thanks again,
Jerry
hi, just a quick question if you dont mind. what camera setting were you using and what would you recommend? i know u chose iso 200 but what aperture setting did you choose and were you in full manual mode or aperture priority? also did you chose spot or multi region region on the camera?
thanks Jim.
So waht kind of hotshoe -to -umbrella stand adapter does one need to shoot thier canon 430 ex 11 thru a umbrellaand will it give me a different look from the modeling lights I am currently using thru my umbrellas?
thnks
Hi Jim,
I think I’ll get tht Genesis 200 one light kit. Exactly how does it sync with the Camera is it strictly a wireless system tht you have to buy more adapters or can you wire to the camera? And can a soft box be adapted to it? and does one have to buy a additional softbox adapter as well? I’m shooting a EOS 40D….
thnks
The Genesis lights do come with sync cords. Check to make sure your camera has a PC connection, that’s how you plug the cord into your 40D to fire the first strobe. Any additional Genesis strobes have built in “slave” units that see the flash from the first unit and then fire automatically. So you should be good to go.
If you want to do this wirelessly you’ll need to buy a sender/receiver unit. There are many on the market and Calumet has a budget unit for I believe around $70 or so. Hope this helps!
Excellent explanations - thanks! I prefer the more contrasty of your portraits - the ones without the reflectors. I guess it depends on personal preference and the skin quality of your model!
Jim,
I have such a passion for photography and there is so much information on the net that it can cause one to become frustrated. Thanks to your website and videos it has cleared up all the confusion. Great job Awesome instructor!!!!
Jim,
As a studio lighting beginner, I have found your blog & videos to be the most useful tool out there. I’ve learned so much from you that I would have otherwise had to figure out on my own (which would take years instead of just a few weeks). I’m experimenting and putting things into practice, and still have a long way to go. Thank you for explaining things in the most basic terms!
I just recently ordered the Calumet Genesis 200 one light kit, and I’m sure it’s great…The problem is that there are virtually no instructions for someone that has never used a light like this before. I’ve only ever shot with available light. I’m having a hard time figuring out why I should make certain adjustments. I’m shooting with a Nikon D80, using the Creative Lighting System (CLS) to wirelessly trigger the Genesis, and I’m having all sorts of problems. My one light kit didn’t have a PC cord in the box. Is a cord necessary? It’s firing when my SB600 does, but it’s not syncing correctly, and I’m shooting as slow as 1/60 second. It does work when I set the camera to auto mode, but I need it to work in manual. Do you know where I can find some really basic information on this? I’ve searched the net and have thus far been unsuccessful.
Thanks for your help!
Jen
Hi Jen, thanks for the compliments, I’m glad the site has been helpful. It sounds like you’ve jumped in with both feet right from the start. It will take a little time to figure everything out but I’ll do my best to get you to the next level.
For triggering the Genesis strobe you can use three methods:
1. PC cord. The light definitely should have come with a PC cord. Don’t hesitate to give Calumet a call if it was missing. In my experience they’ve always been great to deal with and should take care of it right away. A note on using the cord, though. Your camera doesn’t have a PC connection on it, only the higher end Nikon bodies have one. You’ll need to use an adapter on your hot shoe that has a PC connection called a Hot Shoe to PC Adapter (Calumet has one for $13).
2. Wireless radio triggers. This is a more sophisticated solution and costs more. With these you’re not limited to the length of the PC cord as far as working distance from the light, you can work up to 150′ away. You put a sending unit on your hot shoe and a receiving unit on your light. Prices range all over the board from $99.99 for a Calumet Four-Channel Radio Flash Trigger Set to several hundred dollars.
3. Using the strobe’s built in slave unit. That’s what you’re doing now - your camera flash is firing and triggering the Genesis strobe through the stobe’s built in slave unit. Understand that your Nikon camera and flash have sophisticated automated controls that don’t communicate fully with studio strobe units. This is the least desirable option since your camera flash is also firing and may be influencing the photograph. It’s harder to get consistent results using this method.
I hope this helps explain some things. Let me know if it’s enough to get you to the next step!
i’m just a newbie in this field…and i think i found the right link for me to learn more… :p i’m really happy!
Jim, great videos!
I have a quick question about the genesis 200 kit, I notice that the model lighting on yours is very bright is that the standard 150w model light?
Thanks, Sean! That is the standard modeling lamp on the Genesis. Another reader commented about the brightness of the lamp, also. In use it seems comparable to the light given from any similar setup but it may appear brighter in the video than in real life. I’m pretty much using it to light the video so it does do a good job…but there aren’t any magical hidden properties, it’s still a standard 150w modeling lamp.
Hi Jim,
I like your tutorials, they are great !!! I recently bought first studio flash light with beautydish. Do you recommend beautydish for portrait photos as well and how to use it?
Cheers,
Daniel
Hello there,
This is my first time posting here,so I just wanna say that Im glad that these kind of websites exist.
OK,Jim, this is a compliment not a spam….What is your story about revealing those shooting tricks etc.? Haven;t seen anybody doing that recently or ever …Never mind,you deserve a gold medal
As an amateur photographer after watching most of your videos there is one thing missing my focus…..What kind of material you use for backgrounds? I think that you have mentioned but english isn’t my native so I got lost in translation.
Thanks again
I do like the beauty dish but don’t use it a whole lot. Next week I’ll show some photos created using one.
Hi Goran, the reason I’ve shared my knowledge? Lots of reasons but here are a couple. From a business standpoint, I want young photographers to understand their photography has value. From a shooting standpoint, the photo business is getting more and more competitive. Helping others out while establishing myself as an educator helps them and it helps me create more opportunities for myself. Hopefully it’s a win-win situation.
Our backgrounds are often simple, most often a painted studio wall. I really like using an actual wall because it’s so smooth. We also use the back side of vinyl flooring (painted) for large setups and also seamless paper and various fabrics. I hope this helps!
I’ll try some of those background tips on saturday. Thanks again JIm.
If I come up with something is it gonna be a prob to ask?
Just ask if you have any more photo questions, if I’m not able to help, hopefully someone else will!
Leave your response!
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